Nova Scotia

JUNE 2006
On a rainy morning we left the Berkshires in Western Mass, with a quick lunch stop in Epsom, New Hampshire.  New Hampshire - it's fiery independance means no motorcycle helmets, smoking in restaurants, and optional seatbelts among other eccentricities. The rain stopped mid-afternoon as we arrived in Ogunquit, Maine. Despite the already heavy summer traffic, walking The Marginal Way was worth the stop. The one mile path along the ocean was lined with wild roses and red cedars. It reminded us of Simon's Town in South Africa sans penguins. We arrived at our first destination of Ocean Point, just outside of Booth Bay Harbor. Ocean Point, situated right on the small harbor, looks just like one would imagine the Maine coastline: rocky beach, stately cottages, spruce and pine trees. After supper, we walked into the evening and continued once when we woke up the next morning. We could have just kept walking, except that this is a ROAD trip, so back in the car we went and headed north to Booth Bay Harbor.

The day out of Booth Bay started off with a stop at a great little diner that has been around forever - Moody's Diner in Waldboro. Hearty basic breakfast. Couldn't help but notice the prolific lupins on the side of the road as we journeyed north. Found an intriguing fleamarket just outside Searsport and bought some vintage California postcards. After checking into the Bar Harbor Motel in the early afternoon, we entered the Acadian National Park, the only National Park on the east coast. Walking around the plateau of Cadillac Mountain reminded us again of South Africa and Table Mountain. We further stretched our legs on Sand Beach and peered into Thunder Hole. Second night of freshly caught seafood and homemade dessert. The dessert tonight was truly memorable - a wild blueberry pie with shortbread crust and walnut crumble topping. Ended the day with a swim as the pool was heated to 85 degrees (outside temp was 70).

The ferry from Bar Harbor to Yarmouth resembled more of a cruise ship (not that we've been) rather than a car ferry. There were lounges, movie areas, a casino, viewing deck, sleeping area, and well stocked bars and cafes. We did not have a view of the crossing because of the heavy fog. Entering a new time zone upon disembarking in Yarmouth, the dense air lifted. We drove east along the coast, finally deciding to sleep over in Lunenberg. What an incredible find that was as the entire town is a world heritage site. We stumbled across a small comfortable room overlooking the harbor at the Brigatine Inn. The longer days allowed us to walk around the town until 9:30. The buildings, and especially the churches were fascinating if not wonderfully quirky (not unlike Luderitz). Unfortunately they were closed so we did not get to fully appreciate the leaded stained glass windows. There was also a tall ship in the harbor - the Acton Castle - that had just returned from a voyage around the world. We easily could have stayed here longer, but this is a whirlwind tour.

After a slow moving morning we drove further along the coast to Peggy's Cove, a highly recommended place that lived up to its name. A small fishing village with artist colony potential boasting the only post office in a lighthouse, it was an inevitable tourist trap, although a charming one at that.
We stopped for the day in Truro, northwest of Halifax (which we bypassed completely). It was a little anticlimatic after Lunenberg but we did find some interesting things. First was our hotel. The Pelessier was an older roadside motel that I found had a lot of local character. It was also just a few steps from the Tidal Bore, a natural phenomenon where the tide comes in quickly to fill the riverbed and then recedes. Amazing to watch. The weather turned quite warm and windy, and that along with a long day of driving created the perfect elements for gin and tonics. Afterwards, we drove over to Victoria Park, a 1000 acre land area that was very well designed with walking/running/biking trails culminating in a waterfall/swimming hole. If not for the bugs and our impending appetites we could have walked around for hours in there. We had dinner at the restaurant adjoining the motel, which was a pleasant surprise.

The pinnacle of our trip. Gorgeous drive from sea level to 1500 feet peaks and back down again. We could not have asked for a nicer day as we drove through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Stunning vistas and varied flora and fauna. We saw several bald eagles and a moose. The spruces looked dwarflike on the high mountain peaks and the lupins were rampant. We'll let the photos speak for themselves.

We arrived in the late afternoon in Cheticamp, a strong French Acadian village on the western side of the park. Pleasantly found out that the ocean water is quite warm. We had dinner in the Acadian Cafe to traditional fare of blood sausage, meat pie, and stew chicken. Adjoining was a rug hooking cooperative showcasing painstaking and beautiful work. Again, like Lunenberg, we could have spent a week here no problem.

Again a lovely full breakfast (is there any other kind when you are taking in lots of fresh air and exercise?) at the small inn where we stayed - the Acadian L'auberge Daucet Inn. Today started off sunny enough for a pleasant walk, but quickly turned to rain. No problem as it is a long day of driving. We stopped off at the Glenora Distillery, the only place in North America where single malt whiskey is made. Another stop at Mother Webb's for unbelievably good bbq ribs and onion rings (a nice change from the picnic lunches we have enjoyed) in Antagonish, before leaving Nova Scotia for New Brunswick. Destination was Hopewell Rocks, an incredible place on the Bay of Fundy where the tides come fast and furious, and have sculpted the rocks into massive fanciful arches, flower pots and profiles. Thankfully we had the longer daylight hours to check it out and went back again in the morning.

Everything seemed to be closed today, Canada Day, at least until we got to the Maine border. We spent some more time at the Hopewell Rock formations, and then got back on the road for our longest day of driving back into the United States.